Things to Think About Before Buying a Parrot
1. Am I willing to devote the time required for the proper care a parrot?
2. Do I have the funds and other resources needed to properly care for a parrot?
3. Do I have the physical space required to care for a parrot?
4. Do I fully understand what it takes to care for a parrot or other bird in captivity?
5. If you have children, how will having a parrot impact them and the parrot?
6. Will the parrot receive the kind of veterinary care that is required? Is there an avian veterinarian near by?
7. Is my house parrot proof? Am I willing to make it parrot proof?
8. Will the parrot be inside or outside? In the area that I live in, is it safe for the parrot to be outside?
9. Will my parrot be flighted or will its wings be clipped? Who will clip the wings?
10. Who will care for the parrot if I go on vacation?
11. If something should happen to me, who will look after my parrot if my parrot outlives me?
There are many Parrot Species so how do you decide which one to get?
Here are a few of the species.
• African Grey Parrots
• Lovebirds
• African and Asian Parakeets
• Macaws
• Conures
• Parrotlets
• Brotogeris Parakeets
• Pionus Parrots
• Amazon Parrots
Some species are easier to care for than others. People who are acquiring a parrot
for the first time should stick with smaller, easier to handle species such as
cockatiels, budgerigars, lovebirds and caiques. Cockatoos, macaws and Amazon
parrots should be handled by people with experience. Althougth my first parrot was a Blue and Gold macaw.
The best way to start the
process of owning your own parrot is to arm yourself with lots of
information.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT A PARROT’S…
1. Physical Requirements - diet, exercise
2. Psychological Needs – environmental enrichment, socialization
3. Health Concerns – safety issues, disease, nutrition
1. Physical Requirements
Physical requirements, diet and exercise differ for each species of
parrots kept in captivity. There are some similarities for each of the parrot groups
-- cockatoos, Amazons, and so on. But in many ways each parrot will be as
individual as you or I. What one Orange-winged Amazon likes, another may not.
Without a proper diet, a captive parrot is prone to disease and nutrient
deficiency. To learn about diet and exercise requirements for parrots kept in
captivity, see the WPT Parrot website in the All About Parrots > Parrot Encyclopedia
section, on a species-by-species basis (Captive Care)
2. Psychological Requirements
Parrots are highly intelligent and active animals. In the wild, their days are
routinely spent travelling to and from feeding areas to forage and, during the
breeding season, engage in courtship displays and mating. A parrot in captivity
will have the urge to do these things, but will not be able to. So it is up to us to
provide them with an outlet to expend this energy, through environmental
enrichment or playing with toys. We can do this by providing safe, complex toys
for the parrot to work on and climb all over, or with other visual or auditory
stimulation. We can also help by providing the parrot with the largest cage or
aviary possible. (This is particularly important for the larger species such as
cockatoos and macaws.)
Parrots are, for the most part, very companionable animals. Regular
socialization with you and other members of your family is very important
for a parrot’s well being. Again, different species will have different needs; it is
up to you to find out what these requirements are. For information on
socialization, and on safe and suitable toys for stimulating a captive parrot, see the
World Parrot Trust website in the All About Parrots > Parrot Encyclopedia section,
on a species-by-species basis (Captive Care).
3. Health Concerns
Having a parrot in the house may be likened to having a toddler who is just
beginning to walk – with all of the accompanying dangers. A toddler that can fly,
that is.
• Windows and ceiling fans – a parrot that is able to fly can pick up
enough speed to do itself serious damage should it fly into a window or
up into a ceiling fan that is running. While a parrot is out and about,
windows should be covered, fans turned off, and drawstrings and cords
carefully tucked away.
• Kitchens and non-stick cooking utensils – it's best not to have your
parrot in the kitchen: the dangers are obvious and endless. Teflon®
and other non-stick cookware give off fumes when heated which are
toxic to your parrot. Cooking sprays are also harmful to their
respiratory tracts. And, of course, the stove is off-limits to both kids and
parrots.
• Washrooms – should be off-limits due to receptacles in which the parrot may become trapped and drown.
• Electronics and cords – as parrots are natural chewers, this one is obvious.
• Heaters and appliances – eliminate the chance of your parrot receiving burns and electrocution by keeping your pet situated well away from these dangers.
• Cleaners and other toxic chemicals – should always be kept locked
up. Some cleaners are also very irritating to a parrot’s respiratory tract,
so if you must use them in your household, be sure your parrot is kept
well away from them in a well-ventilated area.
• Chocolate, coffee and other foods – some foods are off-limits for
pets, especially for parrots. Get to know which foods are known to be
dangerous to parrots.
• Toxic houseplants – the less these are in the house, the better. Learn
which common houseplants are known to be toxic to parrots.
If possible, a parrot should have its own play area set up – a parrot gym, for
example, or some other stand where it can climb, play, vocalize and be safe, away
from all the hazards mentioned above. And, of course, a parrot should never be
left out of its cage or enclosure unattended. Ever.
Like us, a parrot may become sick from time to time. Learn to recognize
these signs, which may indicate your parrot is ill:
• The bird is lethargic or less active than usual
• It may not be hungry
• It may not be thirsty
• It may sit hunched over, feathers puffed out
• It may sit on the floor of the cage and not move
• It exhibits a drastic change in behaviour at times other than the
breeding season
• There are changes in the appearance and consistency of its droppings
• The bird has episodes of vomiting, regurgitation or diarrhoea
• It is sneezing or has nasal discharge
• It is unsteady on its feet
If you notice any of these signs, an avian veterinarian should be
consulted.
WHERE TO ACQUIRE YOUR NEW PARROT
1. Reputable Breeders
2. Buying Only Hand-raised, Weaned Birds
3. Buying or Adopting Healthy Birds
4. Assuring the Parrot Was Not Trapped in the Wild
5. Adoption from a Parrot Rescue Center
Reputable Breeders and Hand-raised, Weaned Birds
So, after careful consideration, you’ve made the decision to buy or adopt a
parrot. Where to look? There are a number of options available to you, depending
on where you live. Many pet stores offer hand-raised, weaned youngsters for sale.
Make sure the bird IS hand-raised and weaned. A hand-raised or parent-raised
and human-socialized baby will make the best pet, as it will have had a lot of
human contact. Don’t be afraid to ask a lot of questions, and talk to the breeder is possible.
Many breeders will band their babies before they are sent to the pet store. A band
is a closed ring that fits around the bird's leg. The closed (solid) band is a good
way to tell if the bird was hatched in your country, as the band can only be slipped
on the leg up to a certain age, usually about a couple of weeks of age. If there
are any doubts as to the origin of the bird, don’t purchase it.
Buy or Adopt Healthy Birds
You should also ensure the aviary the parrot came from is free of disease.
Illnesses could affect other pets you may have in the house, including other birds,
and your family, as some diseases carried by parrots may be transmitted to
people. This is especially important if you have newborn, elderly or immunecompromised
people in your household. If possible, find out as much information
about the facility your parrot came from. Leave no room for unpleasant surprises.
Don’t Buy Wild-caught Parrots!
Buying a parrot that was trapped in the wild is never a good idea. Parrots
that have been brought in from the wild and sold as pets almost always do poorly
due to mishandling and fear of humans. A wild parrot’s journey from the wild to
your living room, if it survives the trip, is cruel and inhumane. The sad fact is that
the majority of parrots trapped in the wild die of malnutrition, rough handling and
stress before they can be sold as pets.
Adoption from a Parrot Rescue
Another good option for acquiring a parrot is adoption from a parrot rescue.
Often people jump into parrot ownership without any concept of what
proper parrot care involves. The parrot frequently ends up suffering for this. Many
parrots end up in shelters or rescues, which may be crowded and understaffed.
There are always parrots in need of a good home. Be sure you have extra
resources and time to devote to an adopted parrot, which may have special needs.
Resources to Help You Get the Best Information Available
The Grey Play Round Table (Natures Corner quarterly magazine) -- P.O. Box
139, Purchase, NY 10577-0139, USA | Tel: 212-888-1784
naturescornermagazine.com or africanature.com
Good Bird Magazine (quarterly) -- Good Bird, Inc., P.O. Box 684394, Austin, TX
78768, USA | Tel: 512-423-7734 | goodbirdinc.com
The Amazona Society, 235 North
Walnut Street, Bryan, Ohio 43506, USA
Additional Sources of Information
Local veterinarians, newspapers and other community publications - can be helpful
if you are looking to purchase a bird from a breeder.
Reference - often available through libraries, books by noted aviculturist Rosemary
Low are recommended for sensible, up-to-date advice. There are also videos
available, including Understanding Bird Behaviour and Training Through Possible
Reinforcement, by Steve Martin. The magazines BirdTalk and BirdKeeper are
reputable sources of information.
Also the guide that I developed for Choosing a Parrot at http://www.Birdie Bedroom.com
by Dede Storms